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Source: Thrillist Sure, sure, sure. This war’s been waged a thousand times, but we found 10 reasons why Montreal trumps the “t-dot” (which is a stupid name, btw) and we didn’t even have to use low-blow examples like Rob Ford, Toronto's "sports" teams, or that shining moment when former mayor Mel Lastman called in the military that time it SNOWED IN THE WINTER. 1. Better bagels, poutine, smoked meat, and sandwiches. Let’s just start by getting this out of the way. Montreal is home to one of the best sandwiches in the world, the best bagels in the world, the greatest poutines, and the best smoked meat. Eat that Toronto. 2. You can drink anywhere in Montreal, all the time. Yes, you can legally drink in public in Montreal as long as you’re eating food. And since Montreal has the best Canadian food in the country, that technicality is pretty much a friendly reminder. Heck, you can’t even drink alcohol on a licensed patio in Toronto after 11p. 3. Obtaining alcohol to drink in public is easier. In Montreal, wine and beer are sold in dépanneurs, the greatest corner stores in the world, until 11p, the time most Torontonians are climbing into bed. Also? The beer here is better in general. 4. "Joie de vivre". People from Toronto don’t even know what this means, partly because it’s French, and partly because Montreal is legitimately one of the happiest places in the world, and Toronto isn't. And on that subject... 5. Fun isn’t illegal in Montreal. This is not hyperbole. Montrealers are often found frolicking joyously in parks whilst flying kites, having civilized outdoor dinner parties wherein alcohol is consumed, or joining a hippie drum circle on the side of the mountain. All of the above are literally illegal in Toronto. Toronto has a problem with fun (for those too lazy to follow that link, it's a Toronto newspaper describing how the city's denizens have to go to Montreal to have anything resembling a good time). 6. All the best parties happen in Montreal. People from around the world come to Montreal for the Jazz Fest, Osheaga, Just For Laughs, Igloofest, etc., or to just take in Montreal’s famously awesome nightlife scene. 7. Montreal has a mountain Sure it ain’t no Mt. Everest, but at least our mountain isn’t made of garbage (Chinguacousy Hill, I’m looking at you), and it means we have way better snow sports. 8. The cost of living will cost you almost nothing. Montrealers live in beautiful, penthouse-sized apartments with large balconies, and it costs them what a Torontonian pays for their monthly subway pass. And talking of the subway... 9. Montreal’s award-winning metro system actually makes sense. Who in the hell designed Toronto’s subway system? The impractical waste of money that is called the TTC basically amounts to a straight line running through a narrow “U” shape. And a monthly pass costs about twice as much as one in Montreal. 10. Montreal isn’t a sprawling suburban wasteland. The Greater Toronto Area is where Torontonians who have given up on life go move into cookie-cutter houses and burden themselves with the worst commute in North America.

Ça Ressemble à du copié-collé de plusieurs autres textes "vu d’ailleurs" mais au moins, ils parlent de Montréal. Source: BBC Edgy, unapologetic, seductive, nonconformist… these words often spring to mind when talking about Montreal. The city is Canada’s epicentre of fun and fabulousness, a cultural chameleon with a unique sense of style, jumping nightlife and amazing food. There is always something happening here – even on Sundays, when you can rock to the rhythm of the Tam Tams (a legendary weekly drumming festival) or groove to the hottest electro beats at Piknik Électronik (an outdoor dance party). Plateau du Mont Royal Congenial and charming, the Plateau is one of Montreal’s hippest districts. Once a run-down, blue-collar neighbourhood, it now boasts arty residents, great bars and restaurants, and a bohemian vibe. The distinctive architecture, characterized by spiral staircases and colourful old Victorian houses, is what makes this area so cool — a refreshing change from cookie-cutter homes in the ‘burbs. Montreal’s favourite son Leonard Cohen still keeps an apartment right in the Plateau, just steps away from St Laurent Boulevard (known as “the Main” to locals). The best way to explore the ‘hood? Grab a bixi bike and take a random tour, cruising its tree-lined streets (Gilford and Esplanade are pretty scenic options) and picturesque boulevards. If you are on the Main and need a pick-me-up, be sure to join the locals at Euro Deli for an espresso or an allongé. Culinary treats Montreal’s lively foodie culture and culinary scene are famous across North America. Whether you are seeking haute cuisine, or keen to sample local specialities such as smoked meat, maple syrup, bagels and poutine (fries smothered in cheese curd and gravy), you will be well catered for. Dining options are endless, and the food is both tasty and reasonably priced. The iconic Schwartz’s Deli on St Laurent Boulevard is Montreal’s mainstay for smoked meat. But Montreal is a city of contrasts, and it is no surprise to find popular vegan restaurant Aux Vivres just up the road. Permanently packed with veggie lovers, this place is so good that even die-hard carnivores will not miss their meat. Of course, after fuelling up on a healthy meal here, you will be in the mood to indulge. For the ultimate in sweet decadence, La boutique Grandbois offers high quality, handmade chocolates with some unforgettable flavour combinations… ganache and Monte Cristo cigar leaves, anyone? Vieux-Montreal Montreal is known for its European charm, which is especially evident in the cobblestone streets of the Old Port. Meander along the river or stroll down St Paul, before stopping for a croissant at celebrated café and bakery, Olive & Gourmando. Feeling un peu fatigué after all your sightseeing? Take a soothing break in the eucalyptus steam bath at Scandinave les Bains. After some pampering here, you will be refreshed, relaxed and ready to continue exploring the stunning architecture of this historic area.

(Courtesy of CNN)

(Courtesy of CBC News) I remember hearing about this about 1-2 years ago. I am just surprised it is not playing at the Segal theater.

Mordecai Richler's Montreal Ten years after Mordecai Richler's death, Sian Griffiths goes on a literary crawl of the novelist's old neighbourhood as well as some of his downtown drinking haunts Sian Griffiths guardian.co.uk, Tuesday 11 January 2011 11.27 GMT Article history Schwartz's Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen ... Richler was a big fan of their famous smoked meat sandwich. Photograph: Sian Griffiths Nearly 10 years after his death, there is again great interest in the award-winning author Mordecai Richler and his vision of Montreal. A new Golden Globe-nominated film based on his book Barney's Version, starring Paul Giamatti and Minnie Driver, is being released in the UK at the end of this month. In Montreal, there is a movement to commemorate Richler by naming a street or place after him - which is meeting with strong resistance from Quebec nationalists who still resent how he poked fun at their cause and what he saw as their draconian language laws, especially in his book Oh Canada! Oh Quebec! Requiem for a Divided Country. Mordecai Richler. Photograph: Steve Russell/AP But Richler will always be remembered for using his biting wit and vivid imagery to evoke the experience of the "minority within a minority" - Montreal's Jewish immigrants - in classics such as The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. Richler grew up on Rue St Urbain in the historic Mile End district, a 15-minute ride on the 55 bus from downtown Montreal. In its heyday, during the early 1950s, this district was home to a 25,000-strong Jewish working-class community. Yiddish was the language of the street and small home-grown businesses, bakeries and factories flourished. The new arrivals settled mostly around Boulevard St-Laurent. "The Main", as it came to be known, was the unofficial demarcation line between the city's anglophones and francophones. The Jewish neighbourhood effectively became the buffer zone between Montreal's English-speaking and French-speaking communities. Today the area has lost much of its Jewish character as the earlier immigrants became more affluent and moved to more well-heeled anglophone neighbourhoods, such as Westmount. Spanish, Portuguese and Italian immigrants have since moved in, and the area is now more hip, arty and gentrified, with the factories having been converted into trendy lofts. But there are still charming reminders that celebrate an important chapter in Montreal's history. St Viateur Bagel Shop Open 24 hours a day, St Viateur - now run by an Italian - is one of Montreal's institutions and a mainstay of Mile End. Richler's fictional students stop for bagels in the opening scenes of The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. Enjoy the aroma and the show as the cheeky, cheerful staff prepare fresh bagels (35p and up) in a wood-fired oven. Assorted spreads are available separately (£1.90 and up + tax). • 263, Rue Saint-Viateur Ouest, stviateurbagel.com, +1 514 276 8044. Rue St Urbain Richler grew up at the northern end of Rue St Urbain between Avenue du Parc and Boulevard St Laurent. The street, which was immortalised in Richler's St Urbain's Horseman, was to influence the author's work for a lifetime: "One street would have seemed as squalid as the next. On each corner a cigar store, a grocery, and a fruit man. Outside staircases everywhere," he wrote in The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. That vision is largely gone, along with the old Jewish immigrant community. Richler's own home at number 5257 is opposite a yoga centre, evidence of the area's gentrification. He attended Baron Byng High School at number 4251. Now a community centre, its students were largely working-class Jewish kids - many of whom, like Richler, became very successful: William "Captain Kirk" Shatner and Nobel Chemistry Prize winner Rudolph Marcus are among the alumni. Duddy fans will recognise Baron Byng as "Fletcher's Field" High School. Wilensky's Light Lunch Ruth Wilensky and daughter A few moments from the Richler home is Wilensky's, which was a favourite hangout for young Mordecai and his mates - and remains virtually unchanged since it was founded by Moe Wilensky in 1932. Newspaper clippings on the wall proudly attest their Duddy Kravitz connection. The signature dish is a grilled roll of beef salami, bologna, Swiss cheese with a liberal dash of mustard (£3), served up by family members, including Moe's spritely 90-year-old widow Ruth Wilensky. • 34 Fairmount Street West and Clark , +1 514 271 0247. Schwartz's Montreal Hebrew Delicatessen Richler indulged his fondness for smoked meats at this world-famous deli. The boulevard is bursting with energy, trendy bars, restaurants and vintage shops. He paid tribute to Schwartz's in Barney's Version, describing their smoked meat as a "maddening aphrodisiac". In his children's book, Jacob Two Two and the Dinosaur, Richler subjected one of his characters to the "Smoked Meat Torture". The deli has the air of a 50s diner. Their most popular dishes are, of course, the smoked meat sandwich (£3.70 + tax) and "the Schwartz combo platter" (steak with smoked meat on the side, salad and chips, £10.60). Celebrity fans include Angelina Jolie, the Rolling Stones, Halle Berry and Celine Dion. • 3895 Boul St Laurent, schwartzsdeli.com, + 1 514 842 4813. Mount Royal The 233m-high "mountain", home to Mount Royal Park, is an important physical divide between Westmount, (traditionally the affluent English-speaking neighbourhood) and Outremont or "other side of the mountain" (the traditionally French-speaking area), which now has a significant Hassidic Jewish community. The park, one of Montreal's greatest green spaces, was designed by New York Central Park architect Frederick Law Olmstead. It's a stunning year-round outdoor playground for hikers, joggers and cyclists and offers a wide range of winter activities including skating on the Lac aux Castors. All winter equipment can be rented from the pavilion (inner-tube £3 per day; skates £5 for two hours; cross country skis from £7.50 for three hours). There are also guided showshoeing tours (£9.50). On a clear day, the Kondiaronk Belvedere offers spectacular views across Montreal. Smith House serves tasty homemade food (soup £1.50, sandwiches from £4.00). All within walking distance of the number 11 bus route . • Smith House, 1260 Remembrance Road, lemontroyal.qc.ca, +1 514 843 8240. Mount Royal Cemetery Mordecai Richler's grave Richler's final resting place is in the vast, beautiful, 19th-century graveyard on the northern slope of Mount Royal. You can access the cemetery via the rear entrance across from Mount Royal Park on the Voie Camillien Houde (also on the 11 bus route) - although the main entrance and office are on the north side on Chemin de la Foret. It is Montreal's answer to London's Highgate cemetery, with many notable people buried here. Richler's grave overlooks his beloved St Urbain neighbourhood. Other "permanent residents" include beer baron John Molson Sr, the 18th-century explorer David Thompson, railway tycoon and Titanic victim Charles Melville Hays and, curiously, Anna Leonowens of The King and I fame. From spring to autumn there are with walking tours (free) and it occasionally stages Shakespeare in the Park. It was used for a key scene in the film Barney's Version. • Open all year around (check winter road conditions before travel). Main entrance: 1297 Chemin de la Foret. Organised Walks and Shakespeare in the Park: check website for details, mountroyalcem.com. Ritz Carlton Hotel Montreal's historic Golden Square Mile - home to high-end stores, boutiques, restaurants, the Musee des Beaux Arts and McGill University - sits on the southern slope of Mount Royal. Bounded by Chemin de la Côte des Neiges to the west, Boulevard René-Lévesque to the south and Rue University to the east, this prestigious district got its name from the well-heeled Anglo-Scottish Victorian movers and shakers who lived here around the turn of the century. The neo-classical Ritz Carlton is a vestige of this era and one of the chicest addresses in Montreal, although it's currently under renovation. Designed by Warren & Wetmore, the architects behind New York's Ritz Hotel and Grand Central Station, it's about as far from Richler's St Urbain as you can get. Its Maritime Bar was one of the author's favourites before it shut down. The wedding scenes for Barney's Version were filmed at the hotel. • 1228 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest, ritzmontreal.com, +1 514 842 4212. Grumpy's The drinking holes Richler liked to frequent, like Grumpy's, are also situated in the Golden Square Mile, just south of Rue Sherbrooke. The bar appears as Dink's in the Barney's Version film. There is a framed photograph of the writer opposite the chair he used to occupy at the end of the wooden bar. Grumpy's is known for its sociable atmosphere - although since Richler's day, it has become more popular with students, particularly McGill University's "jazz rats" drawn by the live music. Every night there is a theme, including the popular Bluegrass night on Thursday. • 1242 Rue Bishop, grumpysbar.ca, +1 514 866 9010. Winnie's Bar One street over you'll find upmarket Winnie's bar-restaurant, another favourite Richler haunt, which gets a nod in Barney's Version. Occupying the mid-section of the large Sir Winston Churchill Pub complex, it offers a warm ambiance with its marble, wood and leather decor. Many employees and regulars alike have been loyal to Winnie's for 30 years. It specialises in alcoholic coffees (Irish, Brazilian: £5.30) while the restaurant offers three-course lunch specials from £6.20. • 1455-1459 Rue Crescent, winniesbar.com, +1 514 288 3814. Ziggy's Across the street from Winnie's and down the stairs is Ziggy's, a cosy sports pub favoured by Richler, hockey fans and players. Richler liked to smoke his trademark cigars outside on the terrace. This end of Rue Crescent was closed for a street party when Richler passed away, so that regulars of Winnie's and Ziggy's could join together to celebrate the author. The emphasis at Ziggy's - where the crowd tends to be a little older - is on drinking and socialising. There is no food which is perhaps why Richler sent a taxi to pick up smoked meat sandwiches from Schwartz's. • 1470 Rue Crescent, ziggyspub.ca, +1 514 285 8855. Photographs by Sian Griffiths http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2011/jan/11/montreal-mordecai-richler-literary-guide

(Courtesy of the National Post)

Lawyer’s Survival Guide to Montreal By Larry Markowitz Montreal is the most European of North America’s cities, blessed with a joie de vivre that makes a visit worth your while at any time of the year. Although the majority of Montrealers are French-speaking, English-speaking visitors will have no problem getting by, especially if those visitors begin their conversations with a courteous “bonjour.” Entertainment Montrealers enjoy life. Lunches are longer, foods are tastier, and the seasons are filled with festivals of all sorts. In the summer, Montreal is renowned for its international jazz festival, featuring hundreds of free outdoor shows, as well as its comedy festival, known as the “Cannes of comedy.” Many a Hollywood sitcom star has been discovered by the talent scouts who frequent the Just for Laughs comedy fest. Even during its cold and snowy winters, Montreal holds festivals such as February’s Montreal High Lights Festival, which features performances, gastronomy, and activities for the whole family. Of course, one cannot ignore Montrealers’ passion for their Montreal Canadiens hockey club, which sells out the 21,000-seat Bell Centre for nearly every home game. Hockey is like a religion for the people of this city. Many local drivers fly a Canadiens’ flag from their automobile, as they encourage the “Habs” to win their twenty-fifth Stanley Cup. During the summer, the hometown 2009 Grey Cup-champion Alouettes of the Canadian Football League play their home games in the open-air Percival Molson Stadium located on the slopes of Mount Royal, the mountain in the center of this island city, from which Montreal takes its name. Visitors who are less interested in sports can visit the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the Montreal museum of contemporary art (Musée d'art contemporain de Montréal) or the leading-edge Canadian Centre for Architecture. Alternatively, visitors may simply go for a stroll atop Mount Royal, along tree-lined pathways designed in the 19th century by Frederick Law Olmsted, who is best known for designing New York’s Central Park. The pathways of the Old Port along the Saint Lawrence River and the narrow cobblestone streets of adjacent Old Montreal are also pleasant places for a walk, especially when the weather is warm. Visitors from the United Sates should remember to bring their passports, as the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Agency now requires a passport to be presented by all those entering (or re entering) the United States. A taxi ride to downtown Montreal from Trudeau Airport costs C$38 (approximately US$36 at the current exchange rate of C$1 = US$0.96) and usually takes less than 30 minutes. Once you’ve arrived in the city center, you’ll discover that Montreal is a very walkable place, with its “underground city” that links numerous office towers, shopping malls, and hotels and provides shelter from inclement weather. Because of its four major universities, three of which are located in the downtown area, and the fact that many residents both live and work downtown, the central core retains an active vibe at all hours of the day and night. The city also features a safe and visually appealing subway (metro) system. For those in a rush, taxis are plentiful, readily available, and quite affordable. Montreal is one of the oldest cities in the “new world.” Old Montreal, the area adjacent to the Old Port, has the largest concentration of 17th, 18th and 19th century architecture in North America. Those buildings are well-maintained and in them, one can find quaint boutique hotels and fine dining restaurants. Accommodations In addition to the boutique hotels, downtown Montreal also has all the usual chain hotels that meet the needs of business travelers and are located in proximity to the office towers that house Montreal’s law firms and corporate head offices. For a trendy boutique hotel in Old Montreal with exposed brick walls in your room, try the Hotel Nelligan (http://www.hotelnelligan.com). If you wish to be pampered in the same chateau-like surroundings as Madonna and the Rolling Stones, try the ultra sumptuous Hotel Le St-James (http://www.hotellestjames.com). For a major downtown business hotel, try the Queen Elizabeth. As an added bonus, 1960’s pop-culture history buffs will be interested to learn that room 1742 of the “Queen E.” was the site of 1969’s famous “Bed-in for Peace” by John Lennon and Yoko Ono, during which they recorded their timeless song “Give Peace a Chance” (http://www.fairmont.com/EN_FA/Property/QEH/). Farther uptown and closer to the shopping of Sherbrooke Street (Montreal’s “Fifth Avenue”), and not far from Sainte-Catherine Street, Canada’s busiest shopping thoroughfare, is the luxurious Sofitel Montreal Golden Mile (http://www.sofitelmontreal.com). Dining For cuisine, Montreal’s multiethnic population, combined with its residents’ propensity for going out to dinner, has resulted in a multitude of high-quality restaurants, featuring every imaginable type of food. In fact, Montreal lays claim to having the most restaurants per capita of any North American city. At the basic end of the food spectrum, some local dishes that you might want to sample include poutine, a surprisingly tasty artery-blocking concoction of French fries and melted cheese curds doused in thick brown gravy. You should also sample a smoked meat sandwich with a side-order of kosher dill pickle at Schwartz’s on “The Main” (aka Saint-Laurent Boulevard, which is the traditional dividing line between the more anglophone western half of the city and the more francophone eastern half). Montreal smoked meat is a uniquely spiced and tender smoked brisket that is hand-sliced and served on rye bread with mustard. After sampling a smoked meat sandwich, stop by either Saint Viateur Bagel or Fairmount Bagel for a uniquely Montreal tender hand-rolled bagel, cooked to perfection in a traditional wood-burning oven. There’s no rush to buy your bagels, as both of these institutions remain open 24/7. For more sophisticated cuisine, the absolute top of the top include Toqué! and Club Chasse et Pêche. A top-rated genuine French bistro experience may be had, without the need to fly to Paris, by dining at L'Express, located on Saint Denis Street, a broad avenue lined with numerous eateries. It has been said that Montrealers work to live, rather than the other way around. Hopefully, your travels will give you the opportunity to experience some of the joie de vivre of this “Paris on the Saint Lawrence” sometime soon! Larry Markowitz (larry.markowitz@mcmillan.ca) is a partner in the Montreal office of McMillan LLP. His practice focuses on securities law and competition/antitrust law. http://www.abanet.org/intlaw/pubs/Montreal/montrealLSG10.html Drôle de hasard : je ne connaissais pas le restaurant Club Chasse & Pêche jusqu'à ce que j'y reconduisse huit de mes clients pour la première fois il y a deux jours !!

Schwartz un jour, Schwartz toujours MARIE-EVE SHAFFER, MÉTRO 29 septembre 2008 05:00 Indémodable, le restaurant Schwartz du boulevard Saint-Laurent. Tous les jours, une foule de fidèles font le pied de grue devant sa porte pour manger son fameux smoked meat, qui fait partie des mythes de Montréal. «Je ne sais pas comment les gens font pour patienter si longtemps, avoue le gérant, Frank Silva. Ils attendent jusqu’à 30 et même 45 minutes. Quand ils entrent, ils sont un peu stressés, et nous aussi.» D’ici deux semaines, un comptoir pour les commandes à emporter ouvrira juste à côté du restaurant. Une véritable révolution pour Schwartz, qui a pignon sur la Main depuis 80 ans. «Mais on ne s’agrandit pas, précise Frank. Ça reste exactement la même chose ici [dans le restaurant].» Parce que Schwartz ne doit pas changer. La recette secrète du smoked meat reste la même depuis 80 ans. Même chose pour le mobilier et le comptoir : ils ont été rafistolés, mais le décor, l’atmosphère restent figés dans le temps. «On n’a pas de micro-ondes parce qu’il n’y en avait pas en 1928, ajoute M. Silva. On n’a pas de congélateur non plus. De toute façon, on ne congèle rien, il n’y a rien qui reste. Ça entre et ça sort.» Microcosme de Montréal Dans les allées étroites, les serveurs et les busboys se déplacent avec une aisance déconcertante. Deux sandwichs pour la première table! Vite, il faut débarrasser la table du fond! Et de nouveaux clients entrent pour prendre la place de ceux qui quittent. Le réalisateur Garry Beitel a suivi les employés du restaurant Schwartz pendant un an. De ces rencontres, il a tiré un documentaire, sorti en 2006, intitulé Chez Schwartz. «Schwartz reflète un peu les vagues d’immigration à Montréal, explique le cinéaste. Les Juifs étaient les premiers serveurs. Ils ont été remplacés par des Portuguais, et après cela, il y a eu une vague venue des Caraïbes et, plus récemment, une d’Asie.» Une franche camaraderie règne parmi ces employés venus d’ailleurs. «On est comme une petite famille, assure Frank Silva. On passe beaucoup de temps ensemble. Chacun connaît bien son emploi, et on s’aide. Personne ne dit à l’autre quoi faire.» Le mythe : la recette Et la règle cruciale des employés de Schwartz : ne jamais dévoiler la recette du smoked meat. Frank Silva reçoit des appels du Japon, de l’Inde et de la Russie, de la part de gens qui veulent l’obtenir, mais pour le gérant, c’est bouche cousue! Tout cela pour mieux entretenir le mythe qui attire les clients chez Schwartz. Mais selon Garry Beitel, il n’y a pas seulement le mythe qui attire des clients. Ces derniers viennent pour revoir les serveurs qui courent entre les tables depuis quelques décennies, pour lire les articles de journaux accrochés au mur et pour s’asseoir avec des étrangers qui adorent eux-aussi le smoked meat accompagné d’une boisson gazeuse aux cerises noires et d’un cornichon à l’aneth. «Il n’y a pas beaucoup d’endroits qui nous touchent comme cela», dit-il.

Montreal Bagels and Smoked Meat in Boston Posted on May 30, 2008 21:37 by Bruce Bilmes & Sue Boyle Categories: Editorial | From The Web | News | Publications Always wanted to try the famed smoked meat of Montreal? The Boston Globe writes that the Walnut Market, in the Boston suburb of Newton, sells fresh and frozen smoked meat direct from Lester's Delicatessen in Montreal. Eight pounds will currently run you $80. That's not all. The famed bagels of St-Viateur (see Michael Stern's photo above) are also sold at the Walnut Market, a buck a piece. Michael Stern, in his Roadfood.com review, says about the bagels that "we came back for more and soon we were addicted, toting four dozen back to the U.S. with us and hoarding them." Well, if you live in the vicinity of Boston, hoard no more! http://www.roadfooddigest.com/post/2008/05/Montreal-Bagels-and-Smoked-Meat-in-Boston.aspx

Now, you can catch a wave, then hang 10 with some Montreal smoked meat ... in California MIKE BOONE, The Gazette Published: Monday, June 18, 2007 Surf's up in Redondo Beach - and so is the cholesterol. Thanks to a couple of former Montrealers, hungry diners in the southern California coastal town can tuck into smoked meat and poutine. The Redondo Beach Cafe is about 4,000 kilometres from the lineup at Schwartz's, but Steve Spitzer, another expat, says the smoked meat gap isn't that wide. "I was driving by when I saw their sign," Spitzer adds, "and I thought 'Montreal-style smoked meat' was BS. But it wasn't. "Since I discovered the place, I've gained six pounds in six weeks," says the 50-year-old Spitzer, who describes himself as "an attorney who dabbles in the poker world." Redondo Beach is about a 12-minute drive south of the Los Angeles airport. Spitzer describes its distance from L.A. as approximating Montreal to Dollard. The restaurant is on California's Pacific Coast Highway, about 200 metres from the beach. It is owned and operated by the Tsangaris brothers, 42-year-old Costa and Chris, who's 39. While studying at Vanier College and Concordia University, Costa worked in Montreal restaurants, including high-class joints like Milos, and "learned from the masters on Park Ave., Duluth, Ste. Catherine and St. Lawrence." Chris was a jock who played football at Long Beach State University (where he was coached by the legendary George Allen) in the late 1980s and had a six-year career - including a brief stint with the Alouettes - as a linebacker in the CFL. Hearing a Montreal voice on the phone last week transported Costa back to his boyhood in Park Extension (the family moved to New Bordeaux when he was a teenager). "We grew up on Birnam near Beaumont," he said. "Before we knew there was such a thing as real smoked meat in restaurants, we used to eat it out of those plastic pouches our mother would put in boiling water." The concept of smoked meat in a bag would send shivers down the spine of any Schwartz's/The Main/ Abie's/Smoke Meat Pete habitue accustomed to the hand-carved delight of the real deal. But you eat what you can get. What you could get in the way of spiced meat in southern California, until the launch of the Redondo Beach Cafe, was pastrami or corned beef. My friend Alan Richman, who wrote a superb sports column for the Montreal Star in the mid-1970s and went on to many wonderful gigs, including restaurant writing for GQ magazine, used to insist that Montreal smoked meat was merely a local variation of the pastrami he'd grown up eating in New York. This esoteric debate among east coast foodies is a moot point in sunny California, where - far from the delicacy's origins in eastern Europe - smoked meat is new, different and popular. At the Redondo Beach Cafe, you can get the real deal. Briskets imported from Montreal are carved into sandwiches (including a Speedo-stretching "double-meat" special), served Montreal-style on rye bread with mustard. Then there's the "Rachel" (as opposed to a Reuben) made with smoked meat, Thousand Islands dressing, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese; a smoked meat club; a smoked meat sub that's a variation of the Philly cheese classic; spaghetti marinara with smoked meat and a smoked meat omelet. "We also do a health food item - smoked meat scrambled with egg whites," Costa said. Only in California can smoked meat be marketed as health food. In addition to Ahi Tuna Tacos, the El Paso Grill and low-fat, high-protein ostrich burgers, the Brothers Tsangaris also offer poutine (made with Wisconsin curd cheese and imported St. Hubert BBQ sauce) and Greek specialities, including souvlaki, pastichio, moussaka and two Hellenic hamburgers, the Kojak's Gyro Burger and Big Fat Greek Burger. Chris has a master's degree in sports management from Long Beach State and ended up running the program at the school after an injury ended his CFL career. Costa moved to California seven years ago, and he and his brother began thinking of bringing "Montreal quality and hospitality" to southern California. Two years ago, the brothers bought a 45-year-old beachside restaurant. In addition to renovating and Montrealizing the menu, Costa and Chris decorated with Habs' stuff, including Guy Lafleur and Yvan Cournoyer jerseys. "The first picture we put up," Costa said, "was Rocket Richard." The Cafe's big-screen TVs were tuned to the Stanley Cup playoffs. There will be a Canada Day party on July 1. The Redondo Beach Cafe seats 145 (75 if everyone orders double-meat). Business is good, with a clientele, Costa says, ranging from "surfers to CEOs." Bread is a problem. Costa said the local variety lacks the crustiness of Montreal rye. "The flour here is different," he said. "But we're working on it." mboone@thegazette.canwest.com